They make it so easy to be sure it’s calibrated now after disassembling the printer. The printing results are now much better, and I’m no longer forced to use rafters.Ī big thanks to wbvreeuwijk for making the calibration brackets. I could make it even better, but it is close enough for me. Press button 5 to move print head to the middle of the build platform. So now I have a difference of 0.1 instead of 2.0 when calibrating. While continuing to hold it in place, I tightened the screws. Using the supplied hex wrench, I loosened the screws while holding down the arm so that both the printed alignment stands where touching the print bed. The first leftmost screws are for holding a plastic bracket, but the next two are the ones you need to loosen to be able to adjust the Y-axis. Instead of removing the whole arm, I just used a screwdriver to pry out the size of the axis closest to the Z-arm. If the surface that you are using to calibrate your spirit level is itself not level, then there is no way that you can accurately calibrate the spirit level. Just make sure to use a pen to mark the exact location of the arm to be able to assemble it as it was before. Step 1: Find a Level Surface OK, so before you begin the big trick here is that in order to calibrate your bubble level, you need to have a surface that is already 100 level. So I turned the printer around and removed the three screws that hold the Y-axis rails to the Z-axis tower. They fit snuggly on the Y-axis linear rails.Īfter checking, I noticed the 2mm gap on the right side of the alignment stands. CETUS3D LEVEL CALIBRATION HOW TOI just needed to move the print plate to the center and attach the calibration arms to the axis after removing the print head. How to Calibrate a SmartTool Digital LevelIn this video, SmartTool and M-D Building Products explains step by step how to calibrate a SmartTool Digital Level. I found a stand on Thingiverse, so I printed two of them. But I finally found an easy way of fixing the Y-axis adjustment. There is a calibration feature inside the program, but you need to always print with a raft to get your prints level, with the accompanied wastage of PLA plastic. If I zeroed out the nozzle on the left side, the right side was 2.0 lower. Unfortunately, the calibration quality from the factory was terrible, which is unfortunate on such a superb printer. It’s a cheap printer for around $300, but it has linear rails and can give excellent results. I’ve been busy the last couple of weeks, learning all the ins and outs of my new Cetus3D 3D-printer.
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